The decision was made not to land but to cruise along the shoreline as close as we could — pole cameras at the ready to get that much sought after shot of walrus underwater. We listened to the scientist Cabell Davis about the geology and the habits of the residents of this dreary but wildly beautiful place. Everyone wanted to keep exploring despite the wind and snow and are we glad we did. A POLAR BEAR walking along the beach! It was from a considerable distance and those with long lenses got a reasonable shot of what looked like a female — alone and looking a little on the light side weight-wise. You could not imagine where she would get her food — the walrus once grown is too tough. It would have to be the calves that would be on her menu. The guide got us as close as possible and then she lay down and it was explained she could stay there for days if she wanted to! Apparently they can swim 621 mile (1000 km) but only if well-fed. With the weather closing in and fingers beginning to freeze, we headed back to the ship and a warm lunch before the swell of the ocean became too much. Back on board some of the girls were lining up for a sharpie pen “tattoo” of a walrus or a polar bear by one of our resident artists, Toby. We felt a little more connected to these amazing animals here at eighty-one degrees.